The Cyprus meze: a table that tells the island's story

To understand Cyprus, sit at a meze table and surrender an evening. Meze is not a course but a procession — a dozen, sometimes thirty small dishes arriving in waves, designed less to fill you than to keep you talking. It is hospitality made edible, and it is the single best introduction to the island a visitor can have.

The rhythm

It begins gently: olives, tahini, a warm pita, a bowl of glistening koupepia. Then the halloumi arrives, grilled to a squeak, and the tempo builds through loukanika sausages scented with wine and coriander, sheftalia from the charcoal, grilled fish or slow-cooked lamb kleftiko, until you wave the kitchen off with your hands. The genius is the pacing — nothing is rushed, and no one leaves early.

Fish or meat, never both by accident

Traditionally you choose a fish meze or a meat meze; the mixed table is a concession to indecision. Either way the constants are the same: excellent bread, local halloumi, a rough village salad, and a carafe of something cold. Order it for a group, never for one, and go hungry.

Every town has its temple to the long table, from the fishing harbours of the south coast to the wine villages inland. Tell our concierge where you will be and how many, and we will point you to a taverna worth the evening — and book it if you like.