Two days in the Akamas, done properly

Most visitors see the Akamas from the back of a jeep, in a cloud of dust and an hour. That is a mistake. The peninsula rewards the slow, the ones who arrive by boat at first light and let the sea caves fill with colour before anyone else is awake.

By afternoon the road narrows to a track, the track to a path, and the path to nothing at all but thyme and the sea. There is a lighthouse at the end, and the good sense to turn back before dark.